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Irish KC is a one-man site on Irish news and events in Kansas City and its hinterland, along with Irishness in general and how it relates to Irish-America.

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Phoenix Park Racecourse: The Lodge

I never go past it any more.

Because it isn’t there any more. Yet it looks like it is.

Twice last week I cycled through the Park. Through the acres. Past the cross. Deerfield. The Phoenix Monument. Áras an Uachtaráin. Ashtown Castle. Cabra Gate.

It would have been nothing to turn the bike and have a peek. A peek at what isn’t there.

They still call it a racecourse. An authentic name for hundreds of houses and apartments.

When I was very young I used to walk alone, the mile down to chapelizod and its stile and then up through the deer and through Oldtown Wood, past the ponds, until I got to Ashtown gate, and I’d look across at the lodge before walking the miles home.

That way, if I was asked, I had only gone to the Park, a trip far enough to raise eyebrows. It wouldn’t occur to people that I had walked to the far side of the park.

To friends it was the place I disappeared into that time U2 played in the racecourse. In the front door, out the back door, and I could watch the boys for free. And Simple Minds, Big Country and the Eurythmics. And more.

But to me it was a gateway to a different world. Like anybody’s grandparents. A world of trees transformed into houses, of Victorian stands littered with exotic betting cards, of a million bottle tops that all became badges.

With the wisdom of age the lodge becomes like the tardis. How did so many of us sit in front of the fire, and drink tea and eat sandwiches? In one room?

Race days were my favourite. Because so many of us worked all over the racecourse, and at the end of the day an impossible number of us retreated to the lodge.

My friends who didn’t really know the Phoenix Park used to tell me the lodge was in the Park, but I knew you walked out a park gate and crossed a road to get to it. It was the same road road I’d grown up standing in the dark by the fence of railway sleepers waiting for the bus home as Nana stood with us holding the bus timetable. She was the only person I knew who believed in the timetable.

And it was the same road that our cars all stopped on, outside the lodge and its blooming roses, on our way to lay Nana to rest. She always loved the roses. That night I slept in the bed she passed in, so Grandad wouldn’t be alone in the lodge. Nana & Grandad had over 3 dozen grandchildren; I felt very special.

The next year Grandad followed and I painted this 2 years later. In 4 days that blurred into one. Not stopping for sleep much does that. It was one of those paintings that just poured out.

A few years later my mother took The Lodge from my collection and said it was now my parents’. It’s the only painting I’ve ever let be taken from me.

The night before I moved to America was the next time I saw it. It had been framed, and was hanging over the fireplace in my childhood home.

2 years later, at the moment my son’s newest cousin was being born, I got a phone call that told me the lodge had been bulldozed. There was a tradition in Ireland, not gone yet, to bulldoze buildings that were legally protected and then claim it’s a fait accompli.

Those responsible for the bulldozing were made to re-erect it. And like imperfect memories what they put up wasn’t quite in the right place. And the windows were wrong.

It looked like a pretend house. I only ever looked at it once. Because you can’t re-erect memories. But then you can’t bulldoze them either.

And I’ll always have the sound of feet on gravel.

Painting of Phoenix Park Racecorse lodge

This painting is now available for purchase as a print - from a far superior photograph than that pictured here.

More Irish Nostalgia:
   • Traveling by Train in Ireland
   • Songs They Taught us in School
   • Watching Ireland Play Maradona in 1979
   • Radio in Dublin, January 1993
   • U2: Dublin 1979 and 1987

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, October 14th, 2008 at 7:28 am and is filed under 1-eolai, Art, Nostalgia. You can follow responses via my RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.


6 Responses to “Phoenix Park Racecourse: The Lodge”

  1. AnDisOganF responds: October 14th, 2008 at 9:28 am

    Can you hear the dogs barking? Or see the bucket of food getting mushed for them. Or a little round red doornob.

    Isn’t it in the details. Or the tears?

  2. problemchildbride responds: October 17th, 2008 at 10:23 am

    To have such a beautiful reminder of those days is a lovely thing. Is it possible to embiggenize the picture for a better look? There’s all kinds of surface texture there I feel I’m missing at this size.

  3. eolai responds: October 17th, 2008 at 12:36 pm

    PCB - It is quite a textural picture, and that’s a lousy photograph of it. I don’t have a better photo to hand, but as I type these words I’m looking at the painting so I should be able to take another photo.

    It’s also 24 x 18 inches so it would do better being enlargeable. I’ll work on it.

  4. Greagoir responds: October 20th, 2008 at 5:25 pm

    Do you know, I have no idea what Sister the Elder did with mine: http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v71/7/21/61406846/n61406846_33735641_6297.jpg

    It certainly has evaded a frame, from what I can gather.

    I’ve always thought my trees and bushes needed pruning.

  5. problemchildbride responds: October 21st, 2008 at 1:37 pm

    At this size t looks like a collage. It’d be cool to see all the lumps and bumps of the paint!

  6. eolai responds: October 22nd, 2008 at 4:19 pm

    PCB - Yeah it is a pretty bad shot, but the plan from now on in is to take decent photos of all new paintings - always easier when you have a dedicated workspace - and because I have access to this I will, I promise, take a shot to show it in all its varnished bumpy glory.

Sorry. Comments have been closed.

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